Friday, August 28th
Our flight was at night, so we said goodbye to Jerry, worked a full day, left our car at the home of one of David’s colleagues (you are awesome, Bob!) who lives near the airport and headed to Dulles. The place was kind of a zoo, but everything went smoothly and in no time, we were ticketed with our luggage checked- and under the weight limit (woo!). I don’t have much to say about our flight to Germany because we were unconscious for most of it. There was probably a movie, and I’m sure there was a meal at some point as well. I’ve got to say that even though those U-shaped neck pillows look funny and take up a lot of room in a carry-on bag, but they are really helpful on transatlantic flights.
Saturday, August 29th
We arrived in Frankfurt on Saturday morning. Brian had landed an hour earlier, so once we cleared customs, we met up with him at a local watering hole and headed outside to find Grandma Ruth and Grandpa Paul who had arrived two days earlier.
We found them and picked up our enormous van (seriously, paint this thing brown and could have been a UPS delivery truck) and hit the road. The GPS was somewhat temperamental- it had a hard time fining a signal when we needed it most. This would prove consistent for the next 9 days; we quickly became familiar with how much room our giant van needed to make a u-turn.
loading up or enormous van
We drove south towards Rastatt, the place my grandmother lived in until she was 6 years old. The town is located on the Murg river, only about 4 miles from the Rhine river (the French border).
We had a quick lunch of pizza (so much for our first authentic German meal) and beer (now we’re talking!) and then we toured Schloss Rastatt (Rastatt Castle). Originally built between 1700 and 1707, it was restored after the war. Grandma said she remembered playing in the castle gardens as a girl- it was a reminder of why we were here and a great way to begin our trip. We toured the castle and the Wehrgeschichtliches Museum (Military History Museum) before going to the apartment building my grandma Ruth lived as a child.
Schloss Rastatt (Rastatt Castle)
Our first beer in Germany.. the first of many. (Still a little weary from the flight)
Now converted into a modern business building, it was locked and we could not go in. It was a little disappointing, but Grandma explained which window was hers and told us about the other people that lived there in the 1930s. We walked around a while longer and then checked into our hotel for a (much needed) shower before dinner.
Standing outside Grandma Ruth's old house
Dinner was fantastic! We found this authentic German-style restaurant and after a bit of fumbling through the menu we learned that if you just ask for an English language menu, many restaurants will be happy to provide one. We had schnitzel and dumplings, and sausage and sauerkraut and strudel (and of course more German beer) it was everything I had been looking forward to! Full, happy and tired, we went to a local bar for a quick drink and then went to bed.
Sunday, August 30th
We had a nice breakfast at the hotel- the Germans use this handy little bucket at each table for wrappers and trash- and drove to the lovely spa town of Baden Baden.
It is said that former President Bill Clinton was so taken by this little town that he stated “Baden-Baden is so nice they had to name it twice” and I can clearly see why. The place is beautiful and this was one of our favorite days in Germany. The German word ‘baden’ literally translates as “to bathe.” The waters at the baths are rich in sodium chloride, and come from artisan wells 5,900 feet under the Florentiner Mountain. They are said to have healing properties and Roman emperor Caracalla came here to ease his arthritic aches.
We drank the mineral waters, explored the chic town, had a delicious and picturesque lunch outdoors, listened to a concert, and toured the famous casino.
Grandma and Grandpa toasting to their continued good health
Enjoying our outdoor lunch in beautiful Baden Baden
The Spielbank casino is more than 200 years old and is absolutely beautiful. Men have to wear jackets and ties to get in- and if you do not have a tie, one can be rented for the low low price of 6 euro. Dostoyevsky is said to have written The Gambler after he lost his money and even his shirt here.
Then we drove through the foothills of the black forest to Munich and checked into the Hahn Hotel. What this place lacked in square footage, they more than made up for in pure hospitality. Need a taxi to take you to find a pharmacy open on a Sunday night? No problem. Want to buy a tram pass? We have them right here. Do you prefer you soft boiled egg without bacon? Sure thing. Want to park your ginormous van on the sidewalk in the middle of the rush hour? Come on up. Seriously- these people are the nicest, most helpful people and if you are staying in Munich- they are a 15-minute tram ride from downtown and 100% worth your patronage. (stepping off my soapbox now)
That evening, I stayed in and read a little while David and Brian took the tram downtown and had some fun.
Monday, August 31st
On Monday morning, Grandpa still wasn’t feeling well, so while he and grandma went to the doctor and spent the day resting, we took a walking tour of Munich. We met up with our guide Levi at Marienplatz (St. Mary’s Square). This has been the central square in the center of Munich since 1158. Named after the Mariensäule, a large column erected in 1638 to celebrate the end of Swedish occupation during the Thirty Years' War. Today, the Marienplatz is dominated by the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall) which houses the famous Glockenspiel with its 260-foot carillon tower.
Mariensäule and the famous Glockenspiel
We spent the afternoon touring around Munich, Germany’s third largest city. We saw its many beautiful churches and squares, the Munich Residenz Royal Palace and the Englischer Garten. Larger than Central Park in New York, the Englischer Garten is one of the world's largest urban public parks and is absolutely beautiful.
Enjoying the sunshine in the Englischer Garten
Then it was time for lunch. During our tour, we learned that a traditional Biergärten will 1) have chestnut trees and 2) let you bring your own food. We also learned about the weißwürste (white sausages) which are a Munich specialty. Traditionally eaten only before noon-a tradition dating to a time before refrigerators-they are often served with sweet mustard and freshly baked pretzels. So we found our way to a lovely Biergärten and figured, when in Rome….
That evening, grandpa was on the mend but still was not 100%. Since Munich is famous for its breweries, and with over 20 Biergärtens to choose from, we decided the best approach for the evening would be to embark upon a beer and brewery tour.
Munich is famous for its Weißbier (wheat beer), a specialty from Bavaria. Also popular are Pils and Helles. Munich’s Dark Beer (Dunkles) gets its dark color from burnt malt, and Starkbier is the strongest Munich beer, contains 6–9 % alcohol. It is dark amber and has a heavy malty taste.
Brian and David mid-beer tour
We spent the afternoon and night with our new friends from London and South Africa touring Augustiner-Bräu (Munich’s oldest existing brewery), the Paulaner Brewery (a very traditional brewery where we got to tour the brewery rooms, and the famous Hofbräuhaus. We spent the rest of the night at the Hofbräuhaus- we closed the place down. I was really bummed because I wanted a t-shirt from there but also kind of proud that we actually stayed out late enough to be told “you need to leave now, we are closed.” Haven’t heard that in years.
Enjoying beverages at the Hofbräuhaus in Munich
Tuesday, September 1st
We said farewell to Munich and took a tour of Dachau. This was a day I had both looked forward to and dreaded. I knew it was going to be an emotional day- but this was a place that had to be seen. Our trip to Germany would not be complete without a stop here.
work shall set you free? Bullshit.
Dachau was the first Nazi concentration camp. Located on the grounds of an abandoned munitions factory about 10 miles northwest of Munich, Dachau served as a model for the other Nazi concentration camps that followed. Almost every community in Germany had members taken away to these camps.
In addition to religious prisoners, Dachau housed resistance fighters, journalists and political prisoners who opposed the Nazi regime. We learned about the camp as we toured the courtyard, crematoriums, prisoner barracks, and surrounding areas. The museum had well-presented exhibits and thought provoking accounts of prisoners’ own experiences from the setting up of the camp until their liberation by US-forces in 1945.
crematorium
bunks in the barracks
After a somber afternoon- and a hell of a time locating the grandparents, we left for Nürnberg. We checked into the Hotel Deutscher Kaiser in the middle of the city and were greeted by representatives from the Mayor’s office of tourism. We walked around the city and had dinner at an outdoor French restaurant. Grandpa was very excited to be back in the town he lived in for 11 years, and the mayor’s office made great efforts to make him feel welcomed back.
Since Nürnberg is a sister city of Krakow, Poland (and Atlanta, GA!) after dinner, we went to a polish/German Biergärten and an American-style bar below for drinks (and to wait for the rain to stop).
Wednesday, September 2nd
This was another one of my favorite days of the trip. We got to meet very nice people, discover some family history and see the more of the Germany countryside.
In the morning we drive to the town of Hirschaid where we were greeted by the Mayor, Mr. Andreas Schlund and his wife Christine, their son and several people from the town including museum curator Annette Schäfer and her husband Robert, as well as Rudolf Panzer, a now-retired teacher and author of ‘Judische Familien de Hirschaid’ a book about the Jews of Hirschaid. Much to the credit of the mayor and his wife, this is a city that does not hide what happened and has made great effort to commemorate and preserve what remained of Jewish life. Here is an excellent site about the Jewish History of the city as well as a great deal of information about the former synagogue.
Mayor Andreas Schlund, Christine Schlund, Grandpa and Grandma
We went to the former home of my grandfather’s grandparents and then we visited their graves. The Jewish cemetery is an easy 10-minute drive away from the town. Walled off between vast fields of crops, we were let into the locked gate and paid our respects to my Grandpa Paul’s paternal grandparents, Sigmund and Sophie Dingfelder. The graves occur in (a mostly) chronological order- the oldest ones were towards the back of the cemetery and the ‘newest’ ones at the front. It struck me that the most recent graves were actually my great great grandparents who passed away in the late 1930’s. Then, there are no more graves. It’s remarkable and heartbreaking to observe.
Outside the former Dingfelder residence
Grandpa visiting his grandparents
Hirschaid cemetary
After my grandfather had time to say goodbye to his family graves, we took a tour of the nearby Levy Strauss museum, had lunch at a wonderful local Biergärten and visited the site of the town’s former synagogue. The people of Hirschaid could not have been nicer to us all day and I hope to see them again sometime in the future.
Hirschaid former synagogue and memorial
After a very special afternoon, we went to Erlangen, where my grandpa’s maternal grandparents are buried. After a bit of luck finding someone who actually knew where the Jewish cemetery was located, we visited the graves of my great great grandparents, Abraham and Emma Meinhardt.
Then we returned to Nürnberg for a drive down memory lane. Grandpa pointed out the building he used to attend school in, the site of his old apartment, friends’ homes and businesses and other various places that were important to his childhood.
Growing up, whenever I would show my grandpa Paul a new technology or strange food, he would say, “They didn’t have that in Nürnberg.” Well, Grandpa left Nürnberg in 1938 and I can attest that today- they have everything. A mix of old and new, it is a modern and thriving city.
Nürnberg’s former synagogue
After a long day, we walked to the site of Nürnberg’s former synagogue and had dinner at a nearby restaurant before going to bed.
Thursday, September 3rd
We explored more of Nürnberg and found the place very charming. Because the Imperial Diets and courts met at Nuremberg Castle, it is sometimes referred to as having been the 'unofficial capital' of the Holy Roman Empire. The castle and its walls create an interesting layout of the city; there is an ‘old city’ within the walls and a very modern city beyond them.
We walked down to the Hauptmarkt, a vast open air market and the nearby Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). Legend says that if you turning the ring to the right three times and make a wish, it will come true, so of course we all took turns climbing up and wishing for good luck. We toured the city for a while, saw the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) and its glockenspiel and then went to the castle for a fantastic view of the city below.
Atop the castle wall
Then we visited the Nazi party rally grounds and documentation center. The vast Nazi party rally grounds included, the Zeppelin Field, Congress Hall, the March Field, the German stadium and the stadium of the Hitler Youth. Today, the whole site serves as a memorial.
That evening we met up with Rolf, a family friend of my grandparents for dinner. David and I had actually met Rolf when he was in DC last summer, so it was nice to see him again.
Now, my grandparents had been talking about getting this baked carp dish ever since they got to Nürnberg and we had been searching high and low for a restaurant that still made it. So when we found out that this restaurant made it, they were SO excited! (side note: it’s not at all baked, it is actually a whole fried fish but whatever- it made them very happy)
Baked carp and beer.. what more could Grandma want?
Enjoying a growler with our dinner
We said farewell to Rolf and had a few beers before going to bed.
Friday, September 4th
While grandma and grandpa slept in a little, David, Brian and I took a tour of Albrecht Dürer's house and bought some Nürnberger Lebkuchen (classic ginger cookies) and souvenirs. Then we loaded up the car, drove to see the Nurnberg Trials Courthouse and said farewell to Nürnberg.
The drive was long and rather rainy- it took forever but we finally made it to the Hotel Neuhöfer am Südpark in Bad Nauheim. We checked in and then and went to dinner with Karl, another good family friend.
Karl’s parents and my Grandma Ruth’s parents had been very good friends in the 1920’s and our families have remained in touch ever since. Karl even came to my Bat Mitzvah in New York in 1993.
After dinner, we went back to Karl’s home in Friedberg for delicious wine, and to catch up a little bit more. Karl is a very accomplished hunter and his home is adorned with trophies from over the years.
Saturday, September 5th
We went to temple in Bad Nauheim in the morning. It’s a nice, simple synagogue whose congregation is mostly Russian Jews. After all the Jews of Germany have been through, it was nice to go to temple on Shabbat.
That afternoon while Grandma and Grandpa napped, we took the train into Frankfurt and explored the city. With the largest financial district in Europe, it is an extremely modern city with several tall skyscrapers. We went to the Kleinmarkthalle (indoor market) and ate and shopped a little. We went to the Apfelwine (Apple Wine) Festival and took a bus tour of Frankfurt- saw the beautiful Römerberg building and City Hall.
The Kleinmarkthalle in Frankfurt
At the Apfelwine (Apple Wine) Festival
Brian enjoying his tour...
More Apfelwinemore... and sausages
Sunday, September 6th
We made the short drive to the town of Friedberg, met up with Karl and spent the afternoon exploring my grandmother’s family history in the town. We saw the house former home and bakery where grandma's parents lived. We visited the site of the town’s former synagogue as well as its 18th Century Mikve which somehow survived the destruction of the late 1930’s and early 40’s.
300 year-old mikve
Grandma Ruth's grandparents' home and bakery
Site of Friedberg's former synagogue
Then we visited grave of my Grandma Ruth's paternal grandmother, Betti Rosenthal and picked plums and apples in a nearby field.
Our great great grandmother
On our last evening in Germany, we had dinner at a Greek restaurant in Friedberg. Afterwards, it was difficult saying goodbye to Karl. He has been a dear friend to my grandparents, and while e-mail and international calls make it easy to stay in touch, this was likely the last time they would ever see each other in person.
Monday, September 7th
We headed to the Frankfurt airport early in the morning and returned the rental car. We said goodbye and THANK YOU to Grandma and Grandpa and headed to our gate. The flight home was uneventful, we picked up our car and went home. Jerry acknowledged our presence about 3 days later.
So that’s it. I could have elaborated further on several days but in order to get this all up on the blog I had to condense a little. It was an absolutely amazing trip. One that I am fortunate to have experienced. I had a few expectations for the trip- I was nervous about visiting a concentration camp. I was excited to see the towns that my grandparents came from. I looked forward to drinking a beer at the Hofbräuhaus. But now that I’ve had some time to really think about it, I just feel lucky. Lucky that my grandparents were strong enough to make this trip with us. Lucky that they could afford to treat us to this trip. Lucky that they escaped Germany in the first place. Lucky that I found someone as amazing as David to have this experience with. Lucky that David and Brian get along so well. Just lucky.
Thank you to Brooke and Brian as well as Becky and Aaron for watching Jerry and taking in our mail. And of course, thank you Grandpa Paul and Grandma Ruth for this trip. You provided for us, you accommodated us, you humored us, you shared with us and you taught us. I will never forget what I experienced here.
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